Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Amien - Wednesday

After the lovely Bohin factory tour and lunch we drove a further 3 hours to Amien. Some of this journey was off the main highway, so it was interesting to see the really large fields and hardly any fences.

Amien is dominated by the Notre Dame Cathedral. It's enormous! It was closed when we arrived so we will leave late tomorrow so we have time to visit it.

When we walk out our hotel door the cathedral is less then 100 metres along the street. They have a fairly big job on their hands at present as they are cleaning the entire building. It's very intricate and ENORMOUS.
Pics tomorrow.

Night!

Tours - still Tuesday and then onto Bohin France

We arrived at the hotel before 5pm so the driver took us to close to the patchwork shop. Again, it was tiny, but this one had a workshop down in the cellar. Once all of the toile du jouy was purchased we wandered the pedestrian precinct until it was time to go back to the hotel.

A few of us wandered back down to the Centre Ville for dinner. Dianne, Sue, Robyn, Paula & I really struck it lucky. The place we dined at was just by the town hall (Maire) and they had a music and light/animated show onto the building after dark. Fab and groovy.

Early start this morning, with elbows at the ready to fight through the throngs at breakfast. There were 4 coach loads of tourists at the hotel.

Our journey through the northern Loire and up into Normandy was ever-changing. Certainly the countryside got flatter. We arrived at Bohin France just after 11am. Bohin have been manufacturing needles and pins out of this plant for more than 150 years. Some of the machinery is original - nothing better can be made to do the job.

Everyone has a new appreciation for the humble needle now - it takes up to 5 weeks from wire to finished needle. The quality is superb. The glass-head pin making machinery is nearly 100 years old too. A rod of coloured glass is slowly feed  near a gas flame - so melt it. On a large grooved wheel is the pin shafts - point  already formed and with the blunt end facing in toward the melting glass. The glass drops a tiny blob on each pin end and as the wheel turns the next pin gets it glass head.


This high fashion gown is embellished with over 9kgs of nickle and brass sewing pins

Needle making machines. Rod is cut to double length, holes punched for eyes, point created by a grinder, then after being heated to 900 degrees they are tumbled for up to five weeks to finish.



More delightful old machinery


Rolls of needles already threaded through black tape. This will be cut to length and wrapped in a paper and cellophane sleeve.

An enormous bin of needles.


and then onto Tours - Tuesday

The long drive from Perigueux, up the Loire Valley was long, but interesting. We have been stopping at truck cafes along the way for morning and afternoon breaks when we have been on the road. Fabulous dispensing machines and the coffee hasn't been to bad at all. The Travellers have bought more than their fair share of decorative tins at these stops. The bus rattles with all of  them.

Le Mans was one of our stops and I managed to find a race t-shirt to purchase. Hope it's the right size Barney.

Lunch was at Amboise. What a delightful town it is. After lunch we walked up to Chateau d'Amboise and walked around for an hour. What a lovely place.


 Chateau from the street


Fabulous street signs



Paula finally found a door that was just the right size!

Amboise from the Chateau


Just one of the fancy beds

Fancy, artistic photo of Chateau through the stone wall









Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Tours - Loire Valley

Greetings readers. Today we drove from Perigueux to Tours - along the Loire Valley. Great visit to Amboise Chateau.

Then onto Tours. We have been to a patchwork shop, so that should keep people happy. Early start tomorrow so will top this up tomorrow night when we arrive in Amien.

Good night!

Monday, September 27, 2010

More about Monday

We finished our time in Bordeaux with a visit to Maison du Vin where we tasted red & white wine of Bordeaux. It was ok, but I still look forward to a chardy when I get home.

Back on the bus and back to Tocane for a BBQ. Starter was a very soft curry with rice, then fab salads, even fab-er dressings, Toulouse Sausages, steak & potatoes au gratin. Yum. Them we HAD to finish it off with warm lemon cake with whipped cream. Of course, there was the obligatory wine too.

Janice & Paul, you are superb hosts and Janice you are a Cook, par excellence! We really enjoyed the opportunity to get to know this little part of France. There were tears in many eyes as we sang Pokerekere Ana before we boarded the bus.

For me it was time to say goodbye to the family. Thankfully they are coming home for a warm Christmas this year, so less 89 sleeps to go.

One of the group paid our hosts the highest compliment when she commented that the two evenings we had spent at Rouge were better than you'd get in any Paris restaurant!

Early start tomorrow and the beginning of our journey north up the Loire Valley.
 Rouge


One of the 'door bells'

Bordueaux - Monday

This morning we drove 2 hours west to Bordeaux. A significant city that was mostly re-built in the 18th century. Previously a very busy & important river port, Bordeaux is a very grand city.

We have a guided tour in the coach for an hour. BIG monuments, wonderfully picturesque streets and masses of trees. Then we had a one hour walking tour. The mixed styles of many of the buildings is just lovely and wow are those fountains big or what??


Rue St Catherine - 1.2km of shopping precinct












Bridge over the Gironde River

Dordogne - even later that same day

Back to Janice & Paul's place and their fabulous bistrot Rouge. Their website does not do them justice, but it might give you a little taste of Rouge.
http://www.rougelebistrot.com

Earlier we had been joined by an English friends of Janice's, Gwin. Her thread work/painting were so very clever. Gwin shared with us her love of fabrics and thread. We might see her in NZ at some stage.


Gwin's husband Roger had been roped in to help serve tables, as had another friend Roger.

On the menu was Orange/carrot or tomato soup, then Duck, Fish and Chups or Paisley Pie, followed by brownie or pav with raspberries. Paisley pie has black pudding in it. Sound yuk? Evidently tastes great. The food was fabulous, the ambiance incredible and the wine too copious.

We commence the evening by presenting the family with little gifts form NZ. A kiwiana tea towel (will probably end up framed), a fab apron made with NZ native flower print fabric (the Cook - Janice - still had it on the next day), magazines and more, but all with a kiwi flavour. Very happy little kiwis all four were too.

The bus journey back to Perigueux was hilarious - to say the least. As you know, what happened on tour stays on tour, but rest assured there was much laughing.

If you, or anyone you know is going to be in this part of France and looking for either accommodation or food, then Rouge is the place to go. Am I a little bias? Yes, but everyone else would agree about the quality anyway.

Dordogne - later that same day

After Brantome we drove back to Tocane for the remainder of the day.

Everyone was very keen to see Janice & Paul's Gite - self contained apartments. (I posted a few photos the other day showing my bedroom for the night.) Of course, it was very useful that there were several toilets to use too.

Janice took half of the group to the local Costume Museum, while Paul took the rest of us to see their new house - just 2 minutes through the village from their present home.

What can a tiny village of 1500 possibly have to offer in the way of a costume museum? EVERYTHING! Several of the items are a private collection of clothes of the Perigord (local county) mostly of the 1700 and 1800's. Set an old village building it is beautifully displayed and the quality of lace, stitching and cloth were superb. Grandma, Mother & Daughter in one group were busy with different activities - knitting, sewing & collecting a hope chest. Another display was all baby clothes - from bibs with beautiful brooches on the front (would look a bit silly with spit all down the front) to Christening gowns.

Other showcases had collections of chemise, hankies with fine lace edges, knitted petticoats, socks, gloves - nearly all in white cotton and/or silk. Most of the items have come from the local area and are very typical. I was so busy doing the commentary that I forgot to take photos. Will ask around for some tomorrow.

Meanwhile, down at the new house - only 200 years old - but new to Janice and Paul. This grand house is a 'do-up' and a half. With three living levels and a cellar/cave there's plenty of room. It was purchased partly furnished. Some of the items are rubbish, but many grand wardrobes & other cabinets will see good use when the doing-up is done.

Some of the contents purchased with the new Maison Studer


Look at those beams. All hand cut and chunky.

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Saturday in Perigueux

I was delivered back into to town this morning, just in time to walk the streets, see the sights & ride the little tourist train. Many of the cities & towns that we have been in have a little train that drives you around the highlights of the inner city, giving a commentary too.

Perigueux was part of the 100 years war that Britain & France fought. Guess who won? There had been three food markets earlier in the day and there were a lot of people around. In the park area by the hotel there was a family festival. Music, activities like skate boarding, duelling and more. I decided to avoid the noise & shopped and rode the little train. Here's what I saw. The Romans were here a squillion years ago and left a few remains.






Perigueux

After getting everyone settled last night I went to Tocane - a nearby village - to stay the night with my family. What a lovely time. Lots of laughs, wine & smiles. My 'room' at Janice and Paul's was very grand.

still getting to Perigueux

We stopped a couple of times during the day as it was our longest yet. Our last visitor stop was at Terrasson. This lovely little village sports a church, a handful of shops and the Gardens of Imagination. Without a booking we couldn't visit the gardens, but the village was beautiful to walk. We found an amazing craft store with scarves, hats, gloves and more. All crocheted and embellished.

 Yes thanks Col





Lyon to Perigueux

Friday saw us travel from Lyon to Perigueux. Up and over the mountains we went in wind & rain, but you don't notice it too much in the coach.

Lyon cont.....

This was about the time my camera battery went flat. I'll try to get some pics from someone else. This city is wonderful.

After the Silk Museum we drove across town to get the funicular up to the basilica. Well, it was a great idea, but several unions were on strike and protest marches were taking place in the city, so the coach had to park-up and shanks ponies were  in order. A stroll to the metro/funicular and up we went. This was one of those OMG views. I had not realise how big Lyon was, but from way, way up there it looked enormous. A breath taking place is the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvier. E-nor-mouse! It's very difficult to imagine it being built, let alone how much it cost.

After our journey down the funicular we walked to the river boat for a 1 1/2 hour cruise. All this on our 20 Euro ticket. The cruise went down the Rhone, around the Confluence, up the Saone and back again. wonderful way to see the variations in several different centuries of architecture. With several people nodding off during the cruise it was time the coach to take some back to the hotel, while other explored the Traboules (secret passages). Traboules are a pedestrian passageway, often in a narrow space, which starts as an entryway and crosses through one or more buildings and courtyards, connecting one street to another. The first traboules are thought to date back to the 4th century, when they were used for access to the river. There are 315 in the city. Access to most of them is just by walking in or pressing the button on a door, click and you enter. Like I said earlier, my camera was resting, so I will get some images from Diane or Annette.

Diane, Sue, Annette, Janice & I had dinner in a local Bouchon. Bouchon means a cork, bottle neck, traffic jam, but is also a little local restaurant style in Lyon, serving local food. We had a great 3-course meal, starting with a Kir - a cocktail of syrup & wine. Great company and great food. After that we walked back to the funicular and rode up to the basilica again to see the lights. Again, a very amazing view.


All up a great place to visit.
 

So, where did I get to?

The drive from  Beaune to Lyon was more chateaux & villages and trees. A very nice view considering we were on the motorway. The traffic is very well behaved and NO ONE drives in the inside lane except when they are overtaking.

Our hotel in Lyon was less than memorable for many as they were given rooms that were stale with smoke. France has fairly recently changed to reflect the current trend in no-smoking in buildings, but there is a long way to go before they smell is gone.

Oh, just watching BBC News and they are showing the F1 racing in Singapore. We drove those streets just the other day.

The best value for money in Lyon is a Lyon City Card for 20 Euro. This gives access to all 21 museums, metro, trams, buses & the funicular plus discounts at stores too.

We started at the Silk Museum. That was really interesting. 7046 warp threads for one 16" brocade. The 'punchcard' system that has been in use for centuries was amazing. Like a computer, only more hands-on.

Lyon was the French capital of silk. The government decided that the Italians should make so much money out of them, so they started their own silk industry. Silk is still hand woven to order on the same looms as were used to make items for the church and Emperors.

Shuttles of silk ready to weave.



Cogs & widgets on the loom